MY PARIS FOODIE STREET

rue Notre Dame de Nazareth

rue Notre Dame de Nazareth

When I moved to rue Notre Dame de Nazareth, in July 2008, I knew it had the potential to gentrify, not knowing how long this would take. A few art galeries had already replaced the men’s wholesale shops which were there since the 50’s. It rapidly turned from Nord Marais to Haut Marais  (North turned High).

Then came in 2013 the extremely ambitious project called « La Jeune Rue ». A previously unknown businessman announced that he had bought some 30 storefronts on rue du Vertbois and rue Volta, parallel and perpendicular to our street. His intention was to turn my very own neighborhood into a epicurean hub, featuring food stores carrying only the best farm to table produce, meats, fish, cheese, bread, all sustainable and fresher than fresh. Food paradise was going to spring out of the parisian troisième arrondissement asphalt. Well, it did not happen, the man turned out to be a storyteller (mythomane en français), certainly not the millionaire he had claimed to be. So for fresh produce, fish and meat, I still walk 15 minutes to my beloved providers, Terroirs d’Avenir where so many of you have shopped with me since 2011 on rue du Nil,  aka  Frenchie chef Gregory Marchand ‘s little empire.

My street still does not feature a fresh market but passionate and dedicated personalities  have opened one of a kind food related businesses.

elmer rotissoireHow exciting to witness the making of a restaurant, four doors from me, and a few weeks later, to enjoy the food of a talented and friendly young (hardly 32) chef. Simon Horwitz, back from culinary travels in South America and Asia, recently opened Elmer, a large (55 plus seats) welcoming, comfortable yet chic place, with the now ubiquitous open kitchen. A Ferrandi graduate, parisian born Simon acquired experience as sous-chef in acclaimed Michelin star restaurants (l’Oustau de Beaumanière  Pierre Gagnaire and Septime, among others).  Relying on current techniques (rôtissoire, barbecue, steam oven, hay, smoked) Elmer delivers a spontaneous, tasty and lighthearted cuisine, inspired by carefully sourced seasonal ingredients delivered that morning.The menu encourages us to share, offering starters and desserts « à partager» (meant for sharing).

Elmer's starters to share

Bread is home made and the wine list including natural wines is accessible . All tableware comes from Lima, Peru, where Simon discovered chamota ceramics. At an average of 45 euros for a three course dinner (plus wine) and an 18 euros lunch « plat du jour » it definitely belongs in the Bistronomy category.

….

Marie-Dominique Bradford has been my « wine guru » for the last 15 years, operating a wine exporting business, a wine club for parisians and, as a certified educator, wine tasting classes at number 12 of my street. In 2013 she opened Trois fois Vin, a storefront « cave à vin », practically a daily stop for me.Trois Fois Vin

Marie-Do’s mission : to discover and offer exceptional French wines at a reasonable price. She constantly searches and discovers the new breed of French wine makers, going on the field every month, searching the “terroirs” for that perfect plot which delivers a truly excellent wine instead of just simply a good one. The menu of my next class or dinner party inspires her to choose pairings often out of the beaten track, but always balanced (équilibrés), a key word characterizing french taste in all arts.

When Kilikio, a greek food store,  opened two doors from me in 2014, I was surprised. It is no secret that Greek food in Paris until recently had a terrible réputation (with one notable exception). Kilikio co-founder Kritonas, having worked at Michelin restaurants and spent 10 years with pâtisserie star Pierre Hermé  as executive pastry chef, knows quality and is determined to restore greek gastronomy’s image. With a partner on site in Greece and Crete scouting every single food product deserving attention, sustainable when not organic, no matter how small the production, he runs a very well stocked « épicerie » in a fun décor.
Aside from amazing olive oils, honeys, capers, dried fruits, aged feta cheese, bottarga, there are all kinds of sweet and savory artisanal goodies to discover, and even fresh vegetables and fruits imported by a committed and charming team.

……..The coffee centered Boutique Caron opened a year ago between Kilikio and Elmer. Founded in 1972 by Sylvain Caron who boasts the title of best coffee roaster in France,

boutique-Café-Caron-e1453101285834 the company is well reputed among restaurants and coffee lovers in the know. The house blend of Arabicas is sourced in the world’s best plantations.

The boutique’s baristas organize spectacular tastings. You can also learn all about « le café  from bean to cup » and be given all kinds of good advice. The project « la Jeune Rue » brought Mr Caron’s attention to this neck of the woods. And they were not discouraged when it became clear that it would not happen.

All four, as well as the art galleries and other recently opened shops (clothing designers, beauticians etc…) are very optimistic about the future of our pretty street. More exciting and unique creative profiles are bound to settle down here.

By popular demand, here is a spectacular pork roast recipe, including the best greek heather honey (miel de bruyère),  and Domaine de Grézan white Languedoc chardonnay  from Trois Fois Vin.

 ………

Porc Rôti au Miel   (honey glazed pork roast)

  For 6 servings

  • Roti de porc3 pound pork roast (center loin), or shoulder pork roast
  • 2 sprigs of thyme, 2 tablespoons coarse sea salt
  • 2 onions
  • 1 carrot
  • 3 garlic cloves, sprout removed
  • 1 bouquet garni
  • 2 tablespoons olive oil
  • white wine as necessary
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 2 tablespoons honey
  • salt, pepper

cast iron “cocotte Doufeu” from Le Creuset

________

The day before:

Peel the garlic, slice in slivers, slit the meat here and there and insert garlic. In a bowl, combine thyme leaves with 2 tablespoons coarse salt. Rub the roast all over with this mixture, wrap tightly in plastic film and allow to rest overnight in the fridge.

Cooking the roast:

  1. Remove from the fridge, carefully wipe off the salt rub and return to room temperature. Slowly heat the oil in a cocotte, add the roast to the oil when hot and brown on all sides (15 minutes). Remove the meat and set aside.
  2. Peel and dice the onions and carrot. Add to the cocotte, and sweat until translucent. Deglaze with 1 or 2 tablespoons white wine.
  3. Return the meat to the cocotte. Add the bouquet garni, cover and place in a medium 360°F (180° C) oven, cook for 1 h 30, basting and turning the roast around once.
  4. Check that the meat is cooked . Remove, discard the bouquet garni, place in a dish with the vegetable garnish, cover with foil and set aside.
  5. Return the cocotte to the stovetop. Depending on the remaining amount of liquid, deglaze with water, until the juices have thickened to a syrupy consistency.
  6. In a saucepan, combine the honey and vinegar, cook over medium heat until thickened. With a pastry brush coat the roast with this mixture.
  7. Fifteen minutes before serving, turn on the broiler. Place the roast, coated with the glazing, under the broiler, until a golden crust has formed. Remove and allow the meat to rest 10 minutes before slicing and serving.
  8. Serve with the reduced cooking liquid and the vegetable garnish.

 

35 Comments

  1. Reply

    Mary-Anne Fraser

    January 20, 2016

    Paule, such a great story.. Well told and so inspiring. I was in your rue de Nazareth, end of Octiber and saw some of these iconic businesses. I hope they do well and bring a great cultur to the area. Hence the prices of apartments will increase! Persue your dreams. Mary-Anne xx

  2. Reply

    Domenica

    January 20, 2016

    Love this update, Paule! I have fond memories of the wine tasting at Trois Fois Vin, and I can't wait to make the porc au miel.

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Domenica,

      tu m'écris en anglais ? Enfin, la cuisine et le vin n'ont pas besoin de langue. Bonne cuisine et surtout donne nous des bonnes nouvelles de Daniele.
      Paule

  3. Reply

    Jan

    January 20, 2016

    Paule,

    This was a really enticing tale about your neighborhood, which of course made me want to go there immediately! I will make the pork dish this weekend for friends who have not met you but have certainly heard stories about my adventures in your kitchen. Thanks.

    Jan

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Jan,

      I am sure you will do a good job, make sure the pork had its own good fat at the surface. A lean pork won't do.
      Bon apétit and keep me posted on the outcome.

  4. Reply

    Kris iwasaki

    January 20, 2016

    Thank you Paule, I liked your story about your neighborhood and the outcome is good! You have a few gems now and that will attract more like minded entrepreneurs, I am sure.
    Tom and I loved our cooking class, we still talk about it. The walking tour to see the age old spice store that had been in the family for generations was one of our favorites.
    Thank you!

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Kris,

      always good to hear from you. By the way, didn't you send me a scones recipe ? I lost it, would love if you have it to get it again.
      The spice store is of course still here, a 5 minutes walk from my street.
      Best to Tom and you,
      Paule

  5. Reply

    From: Mary Engles of San Diego, CA

    January 20, 2016

    Thank you for your update Paule!! Cities do morph and grow and it is such great fun to be a part of it. Your neighborhood took its time but now seems to have arrived. Now for an open marche!!

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Mary,
      good to hear from you. Yes it is exciting.
      Take care

  6. Reply

    Sheri Cheng

    January 21, 2016

    I have not had a chance to visit Paris since we met in 2003, but this post makes me want to go back with my husband and son! Perhaps soon when my son is older. I appreciate your updates!

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Sheri,
      you will come back I am confident. Thank you for your continued interest,

      Paule

  7. Reply

    Paula Lambert

    January 21, 2016

    I remember your street and can't wait to see its metamorphosis when I am in Paris next week ... and I hope to see you too!

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Paula,
      would love to see you next week if only for coffee, but perhaps for Lunch at Elmer ?

  8. Reply

    Chris Scheuer

    January 21, 2016

    This is a wonderful post Paule and brought back some sweet memories of our time in Paris and with you and Oliver!

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Thank you Chris, we have to do it again some time. Best to Scott and you

  9. Reply

    Donna Morris

    January 21, 2016

    Love! I need to get over your way it looks like. Thanks for article and the recipe. I know what I'm having for dinner this weekend.

  10. Reply

    LorraineFinkbeiner

    January 21, 2016

    How wonderful to read this update. Your class is one of my best memories of Paris. I hope I can return one day! Sounds like you bought the perfect property for your business!

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Lorraine,
      so glad to read this.Best regards to Gary and you

  11. Reply

    Jill Phillips

    January 21, 2016

    Paule,

    I was so excited this morning when I saw that I had an e-mail from you! I love hearing about what is going on in Paris. My husband Tim and I are just finishing planning our April trip to Burgundy. We will be spending a couple of days in Paris at the end of our trip so we will definitely try to visit a few of the places you recommend.

    Thanks!

    Jill

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Jill,
      Burgundy is a great destination. When in Paris, would love to take you for coffee at Caron, so try to make time. Best to Tim and you

  12. Reply

    Liz Tree

    January 21, 2016

    Can you provide a link to classes and walking tours for this March? thx

  13. Reply

    Colleen Smith

    January 21, 2016

    Paule,
    So thrilled to see your neighborhood is showing signs of remaining a true Parisian neighborhood, and not a cookie cutter gentrification. Thank you for such thoughtful words.

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 21, 2016

      Colleen;
      love this expression, never heard it before. Gentrification can be threatening, but yes here it is nicely done.

  14. Reply

    Traci Gentry

    January 21, 2016

    Bonjour, Paule! Thank you for the wonderful update. It has been nearly 10 years since my mom and I celebrated our 40th and 60th birthdays in your kitchen and among the streets of Paris in September of 2006. Perhaps it is time for a return trip! Glad to hear you are well. Traci and Carol

  15. Reply

    Amy Russell

    January 21, 2016

    Bonjour Paule,
    Thank you so much for sharing this story! What a treat to feel transported back to your beautiful neighborhood! Oh how I can't wait to be in your kitchen again someday!!! XO Amy

  16. Reply

    Roz

    January 21, 2016

    So pleased to read your latest post Paule and that we will be back in your area this year in June.See you in a few months. Roz

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      January 22, 2016

      Roz,
      this is wonderful news. We will take a little tour of my street in June.
      Paule

  17. Reply

    Deb Voige

    January 25, 2016

    As I sit at the airport waiting for my "now delayed" flight, I've had time to read your newsletter. I feel so privileged to have shared lunch with you at Elmer on Friday! Thanks dear friend for a delightful experience--- until next time.
    Deb

  18. Reply

    Marie

    January 26, 2016

    Paule, Bonsoir,
    What a great update. Makes me want to go back to your street and spend even more time there - especially lunch at Elmer with Yann, and maybe a longer shopping trip at Kilikio. It'll have to be a Tuesday, though!
    See you soon,
    Marie

  19. Reply

    Saundra Tobman

    May 14, 2017

    Paule, who can substitute for awesome Paule, now that you have relocated in Lyons?
    My son will be in Paris this summer and I want to treat him to a cooking class. He is a very creative cook already, but would profit from a gourmet class.
    Saundra Tobman (from Montreal)
    You taught mr how to use a pot au feu! Love that addition to my kitchen!

  20. Reply

    Lenny Comeras

    July 7, 2017

    Please get in touch with me!!

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      July 10, 2017

      Bonjour Lenny,

      what can I do for you ?

      Kind regards,

      Paule

    • Reply

      Paule Caillat

      July 10, 2017

      Bonjour Lenny,

      what can I do for you ?

      Kind regards,

      Paule


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